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blog to share project updates. Tech, cyberdecks, hardware, software and maybe food and clothes

msg lab

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 msg lab

<h1>Here are the tools I have been using to design and assemble my projects. Many of them can be replaced by cheaper (or pricier) options, these just happen to be the ones I have. &nbsp;</h1><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3lwLIVT">solder iron</a> - There are many out there, pricier and cheaper. This is my third one, and so far is the best. Heats up quick, stays hot. I use it for soldering and for heat inserts.<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2IcIvfN">self-healing cutting mat</a> - insurance for your desk top.<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2SFpc0s">caliper</a> - 3D design usually involved fitting different parts, including components you bought and other parts you design. Precise measurements are necessary to make it work.<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-printers/180-original-prusa-i3-mk3s-kit.html#">Prusa MK3s</a> - 3D printer, there are plenty out there. This is the one I have and seems to be ok.<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/30OvuiN">helping hands</a><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/36Zct1h">solder reel stand</a><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3iKlFZi">smoke absorber</a> - important if you solder with lead-based tin<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2If0aUd">screwdriver</a> - any will do, but an electric one makes it easier on your wrist<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3nfubCz">small bits and sundries electronics tools</a> - they play well with the electric screwdriver<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2SFptAw">heat gun</a><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3luYl3Q">glue gun</a><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2GKzRV0">knives to remove supports</a> - better than the <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/35PwYv7">x-acto</a> set i have, because the blades are thicker, which comes in handy for prying supports<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/34I0X7o">wire stripper</a> - you want the one for wires thinner than 20… which I eventually learned means higher numbers.<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3dhbnz0">de-burring tool</a> -great for removing brims on 3d printed parts.<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/31VuKZJ">head lamp</a> - great for poorly lit desks, and does more than the lamp on the <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/31RXfYw">magnifier</a> of the helping hands<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3mtfnQ6">scissors</a> - ehh.. for cutting<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2InGJcg">micro cutter</a> - to clip the tips after solder or pla at an anglerotex - I got that off eBay, the ones for sale now (like the dymo on amazon) appear to be very poorly build by comparison&nbsp;&nbsp;

Tools that I used to assemble the msg or other projects

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Hardware

<h1>pimoroni pirate audio mounted on a pi zero &nbsp;</h1>This is the first add-on I put together for the expansion bay on the msg. It is just a pirate audio from Pimoroni mounted on a raspberry pi zero. Note that as an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.&nbsp;Parts<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/pirate-audio-line-out">Pirate Audio Line-out HAT</a> &nbsp;- all in one music player made for the Raspeberry Pi<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/354JzLr">Raspberry Pi Zero</a> - the brains<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3k7W5OP">Pi Zero USB Stem</a> - Makes it easier to plug the pi zero into any USB port<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2U3nM0A">screws</a> - m2.5 I used 5 and 6mm<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3k4so16">standoffs</a> - you actually want M2.5 8mm, but I only had 6mm, so I used 2mm nuts to make it work<figure class="image"><img src="https://nars-bucket.s3.amazonaws.com/pirate_audio_parts_tools_cd5d6809bd.webp" alt=""></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;AssemblyThere is a bit of soldering for the stem, but other than that it is fairly trivial.&nbsp;Set UpI used this <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://learn.pimoroni.com/tutorial/sandyj/getting-started-with-pirate-audio">guide</a> which basically installs mopidy on the Pi Zero. I have mixed feelings about it, it has a web browser manager for the music, but I would rather control the thing without needing an extra computer. Do let me know if you get a pirate audio working without mopidy, I'd love to give it a go.<figure class="image"><img src="https://nars-bucket.s3.amazonaws.com/pirate_audio_parts_bottom_f057314eca.webp" alt=""></figure>&nbsp;And you are good to go!&nbsp;

the first add-on for the msg, it is a Pimoroni pirate audio hat mounted on a raspberry pi zero

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msg add-on: pirate audio

<h1>Design and build a simple product with fusion 360 and a 3D printer</h1>The suction holder that came with the simplehuman <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/33eW9Xk">squeegee</a> kept falling, so we ended up leaving it on the sink countertop. That wasn't ideal, and my wife tasked me with coming up with a solution. I thought it would be a good idea to 3D design it and print it, because if you got a hammer everything looks like a nail.I was able to put together a working solution in about an hour, including print time. I thought I may share it for people getting started with 3D design and printing. So I grabbed the caliper and measured the shower rod thickness (26mm) and the hole on the squeegee (11mm).&nbsp;What I used:<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/39l6O6u">Caliper</a> - You want a somewhat snug fit, and since you are the one designing it and printing it, may as well get it!<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-printers/180-original-prusa-i3-mk3s-kit.html#">Prusa MK3S</a> - this is such a small and simple part that any printer should be able to do it, this one just happen to be the one I have.<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/personal">Fusion 360</a> - the free (hobbyist) version is more than enough.<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.prusa3d.com/prusaslicer/">PrusaSlicer</a> - takes the stl output from Fusion 360 and generates the gcode files that your printer can use.<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3pXHfP1">PLA</a> - Any color will do, I am actually thinking on reprinting it with PETG to better handle the temperature in the shower. I didn't do any post-printing work, but you probably want to coat it with something to prevent molding. I will update this post if I need to reprint it due to heat or humidity issues.&nbsp;Steps:1 - Sketch. This is the starting point for Fusion 360 models. The more you know about the final product, the better the sketch can be and that makes the work easier later. To get the design below you just need to play with the line, circle and square designs. Add some dimensions to it and you are good to go.<figure class="image"><img src="https://nars-bucket.s3.amazonaws.com/sketch_1_1603f9176a.webp" alt=""></figure>&nbsp;2 - Trim. That is the scissors tool on the bar. It does a pretty good job at identifying the parts you don't need.<figure class="image"><img src="https://nars-bucket.s3.amazonaws.com/post_trim_a2012d20a9.webp" alt=""></figure>&nbsp;3 - Extrude. I made it 7mm tall. And then click on the edges and “fillet” them (it is one of the icons on the top). I used a 3mm fillet on each side and 1mm on the ends.Hint: Using 3.5mm would have made the thing circular since 3.5 on each side makes it 7mm. Leaving 1mm of flat space will make it much easier to print, since the first layer will have more surface to stay attached to the bed<figure class="image"><img src="https://nars-bucket.s3.amazonaws.com/extruded_f29375bc93.webp" alt=""></figure>&nbsp;4 - Print it. This is 2077, ok 2020.. we print things in 3 dimensions. I used the default settings in the Prusa Slicer. Changed the infill to 40%, but the default was probably fine. No raft, no supports, no brim. The 1mm we left of flat space should be enough to make it work.<figure class="image"><img src="https://nars-bucket.s3.amazonaws.com/in_print_bed_e098fe5154.webp" alt=""></figure>&nbsp;5 - Hang it like the piece of art it is and admire it.<figure class="image"><img src="https://nars-bucket.s3.amazonaws.com/trying_it_out_57baf0a164.jpg" alt=""></figure>

A quick project to design and 3D print a squeegee holder

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HowTo - Fusion 360 and 3D Print

<h1>The video above shows how to switch between the Windows 10 in the NUC and the Debian Linux distro in the Raspberry Pi 4</h1>&nbsp;To put the msg together I used a lot of parts. And the vast majority ended up not working out. With that in mind, I will try to be as complete as possible listing the ones that actually ended up being used. Also, many choices were made to use stuff I had at hand, and better options may be available out there. Note that as an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.<h3>&nbsp;</h3><h3>Main Components:</h3><ul><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2SFvgGl">nuc (sleek chassis)</a> - without a doubt the biggest money pit in the whole build, up there with buying the prusa to 3dprint the case. You can swap it for the i3. I actually bought one and used it for testing. Or you could even bypass the whole nuc business and use the space for extra batteries and have a pi deck that runs for a couple of days.</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2SJYOT2">raspberry pi 4</a> - I am using the 4G one here, but it really comes down to what you are trying to do with it.</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://olkb.com/collections/planck">planck keyboard</a> - Bought one of those around the summer of 2019 and it has been my main driver since. When thinking on which one to use on my deck I went with more of the same. My “other” one is the EZ that comes ready to use, here I went for a more assembled version, since I wanted to keep flexibility on some things, I may replace the aluminum enclosure with a 3d printed one to make room for taller caps. stay tuned.</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2SIgoXS">x728 18650 ups</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2HYAgUh">7 Inch screen</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3jMlPkc">2 port kvm switch</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.imrbatteries.com/samsung-36g-18650-3600mah-10a-battery/">18650 batteries (2x)</a> - I have 4 of those, 2 is not really enough to get the thing going for a day. I will try to find room to add the other 2 at some point. That said, those are the highest capacity ones I saw around.</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/microdot-phat?variant=25454635591">micro dot phat</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.retrocution.com/product/tiny-usb-hub-4-port/">usb huu</a> - tinties hub I've seen, works pretty well. We use that because the kvm only gives 2 ports, one for the keyboard and one for the mouse. We break the one for the mouse to also provide a usb port for the lcd touch panel.</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://zealpc.net/products/aqua-zilent">zilent switches</a> - I tried using some trash pandas from novelkeys, but the box under the keyboard acts as an echo chamber and makes them way to loud. zilents are ok.</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://pimpmykeyboard.com/dsa-combat-keyset-sublimated/">keycaps</a> - the current build fits DSA profile (which i got form the on sale section of sa plastics), but I plan on adjusting it to accommodate cherry profiles since I am waiting on the GMK laser from last Drop.</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3nyd3J4">pla for main parts</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3iMh4pu">pla for accents</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/mini-black-hat-hack3r?variant=19448026055">mini hacker hat</a> - this is what holds the micro dot phat. there is a lot of soldering behind it, because every pin of the ribbon need to be flipped and soldered, then the eInk pins have to be added as well in the back. It doesn't make sense but when you put it together it will be an a-ha! moment.</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/hat-hacker-hat">hat hacker hat</a> - That tops the tower of Pi hats, it actually helps holding the 18650s in place too. I don't really use the exposed gpio there, but that could change, maybe a DHT11….</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3lteo1L">paracord for usb cable</a> - vanity thing, but why not. There is some usb cable exposed to run the lcd screen and touch panel, so I went ahead and did a custom sleeveing there.</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2SK0sUI">female usb panel mount</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3ny5JwS">hook for strap</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3jLKSEc">2.13 inch eInk screen</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/pico-hat-hacker">pico hat hacker</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3nq7igm">6 inch HDMI Cable for NUC</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3iJcXL9">16mm push button for SWX</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32697109472.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dxhfkUu">16MM push button for RPI</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000493238664.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dIenRQV">16MM push button for NUC</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/34CG11H">40mm 5v fan</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2STrGst">hdmi cable for taspberry pi</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/sparkfun-usb-type-a-female-breakout">usb female jack</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3nxX3Xh">1ft HDMI cable for the screen</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3lyL5uH">D-ring for strap</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3jE6p1v">90 degree angle for power cord</a></li></ul>&nbsp;<h3>Screws &amp; Co:</h3><ul><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3llGHPL">short m3 screws 10mm are the most used here</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2SxJPvx">long m3 screws for the hinge</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2SvVTNJ">Nylon washers for the hinge</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/36LX04v">5.5 x 2.5 mm barrel jack for power input</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2I1yQZd">26 awg hook up wire</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3d7dtBl">m3 heat inserts</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2SxmrhF">m2.5 heat inserts</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2I1A4DN">4pin connector for USB internal wiring</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3nw1FNQ">jst-ph 2.0 connectors for wiring</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2SGIYc5">3:1 heat shrink with glue</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2GTSrKc">micro usb male connectors</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/33K6r2u">usb male connectors</a></li></ul>&nbsp;

Parts used to assemble the msg and commentary on why and potential alternatives

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msg parts

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<h1>The msg is a cyberdeck with enough tricks under the hood to be your daily driver for computing, hacking, learning and experimenting. Since it is a 3D printed DIY build, repairs and upgrades are core to the msg capabilities.&nbsp;</h1>Why would you want to build something like this?Well maybe because you want:<ul><li>Control over the hardware on your electronics (no microphones or cameras for example)</li><li>To run all your boring corp software (Win 10, Excel…)</li><li>To be able to open, repair, improve, change your hardware</li><li>To learn electronics with linux, raspberry, arduino…</li><li>To have a mechanical keyboard on a portable device</li><li>To have something to do with all the newfound free time at home</li><li>To get frowned upon at airports if they stick around long enough for you to use one again</li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://nars-bucket.s3.amazonaws.com/top_front_c741ec9886.webp" alt=""></figure>The current build includes an i7 NUC on the left and a raspberry pi 4 on the right.The raspberry pi is able to run on the go thanks to a couple of 3.6mAh 18650.The front has the keyboard and under it there is a KVM switch that allows the msg to share the screen, keyboard and a usb plug between both systems, for a seamless transition.The screen is a 7inch touchscreen, leaving some space to the right of it that I used to add an eInk display, breakout board and a <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/microdot-phat?variant=25454635591">Pimoroni micro dot phat</a>.&nbsp;Ok, now that you are semi-convinced. This site's hope is to help you out putting together your very own msg. If you consider embarking on the project, please reach out and also join the cyberdeck <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://discord.gg/s8wqtpe">discord</a> to share your experience!&nbsp;

The msg, a versatile cyberdeck powered by an i7 intel NUC and a Raspberry Pi 4. It also sports an ortho 40% Planck mechanical keyboard.

msg background

This section will cover the software I used to develop the msg as well the software you may want to use to get started with it.Development Software:<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.tinkercad.com/">TinkerCad</a> - I started with TinkerCad, and I would recommend it to anyone getting started with 3D design with not background on.. well.. anything related to 3D design.<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/personal">Fusion 360 </a>- after about ½ year toying with TinkerCad I moved the project to Fusion 360 and continued there, it is really the natural step once you get comfortable with the basicsTinkerCad is free, and I only used the free / hobbyst version of Fusion 360, which is more than enough to develop thins like this&nbsp;<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4617003">3D STL Files</a> (Thingiverse)&nbsp;Operating Software:Python file to run the eInk screen. I may add a how to to make it load on startup.

Software used to design and operate the msg

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msg software

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<h1>PocketType</h1>This is a post about the assembly of the PocketType I bought of <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://mechboards.co.uk/shop/kits/pockettype/">mechboards</a>. I plan to use it as a keyboard on the go and as a test to see if it is actually functional or more of a novelty.Assembly is straight forward, the instructions on the <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://mechboards.co.uk/shop/kits/pockettype/">mechboards</a> website is all you need . The keyboard worked right away except the leds. The default setting makes sense, but I may buy some stickers or find a way to get legends on at least some of the caps&nbsp;parts<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://mechboards.co.uk/shop/kits/pockettype/">pockettype</a> - the star of this show<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://mechboards.co.uk/shop/components/elite-c/">elite c</a> - way overkill, but looks pretty and the usb c is nice. Any pro micro will do and they go for about $5<figure class="image"><img src="https://nars-bucket.s3.amazonaws.com/pocket_type_setup_52a5b1950f.webp" alt=""></figure>tools<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3lwLIVT">solder iron</a><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3iKlFZi">smoke absorber</a> - important if you solder with lead-based tin<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2InGJcg">micro cutter</a> - to clip the tips after solder<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/36Zct1h">solder reel stand</a>toothbrush - any brush will do to clean dust and remove residue<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2SFpc0s">caliper</a><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3nfubCz">small bits and sundries electronics tools</a> - they play well with the electric screwdriverrotex - I got that off eBay, the ones for sale now (like the dymo on amazon) appear to be very poorly build by comparison<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2IcIvfN">self-healing cutting mat</a>&nbsp;consumables<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/38AbK7r">tip tinner</a> - to keep the solder iron in tip top condition<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2Gvllkn">rosin</a> - makes soldering easier<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3nvat6w">solder wire</a> - I use the lead one because it is easier, but with enough skill you should be able to move to lead-free wires<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3lvIUsn">99% ipa</a> - great for cleaning residue.<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/38H3JgS">M2 4 and 6mm screws</a> - I like the dark color and flat top better than the ones it came with. I didn't have 10mm (which are used in the back), so the back uses the ones it came with.&nbsp;&nbsp;

Assembling a pocket type to use as a keyboard on the go

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PocketType

<h1>Assembling a blog on the cheap and with no experience</h1>Early October 2020 I bought a domain at Go Daddy and started to put together a site to summarize my experience building the msg and also as a place to aggregate information for anyone trying to build one. My experience with building sites was limited to a Drupal site I put together around 2009 to lease apartments.. and from what I gathered there have been some changes to how sites are built in the meantime. My first build was a GitHub Page, using the following tech (mainly learned from w3schools.com, a great site for anyone getting started):<ul><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://github.com/">GitHub</a>, <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://desktop.github.com/">Github Desktop</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.godaddy.com/">GoDaddy</a> (Domain and email server)</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.w3schools.com/html/">HTML</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.w3schools.com/css/default.asp">CSS</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.w3schools.com/js/default.asp">Javascript</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.w3schools.com/bootstrap4/default.asp">Bootstrap</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://code.visualstudio.com/">Visual Studio Code</a></li></ul>All of these options are free, so a site like that should be doable at no cost beyond the mental health issues that come from working with <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.reddit.com/r/ProgrammerHumor/">code</a>The site was ok for about 5 pages, with a decent navigation bar (bootstrap) and a fancy-ish dark theme mode I put together by writing a javascrip that toggled the css. The problem was that if you didn't have blazing fast internet, the css switch created a horrendous <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://joshwcomeau.com/gatsby/dark-mode/">flash</a>. &nbsp;After a couple of weeks of running the site, it was obvious that having to assemble every HTML page manually it was more craft than I intended to do for this site, so I started to learn more about modern sites. The current site uses the following tech:&nbsp;<ul><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://nextjs.org/">Next.js</a> (i.e. <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.w3schools.com/js/default.asp">Javascript</a>, <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://reactjs.org/">React</a>)</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://strapi.io/">Strapi</a> (CMS)</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://styled-components.com/">Styled Components</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://heroku.com">Heroku</a> (Back end deploy)</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.postgresql.org/">PostgreSQL</a> (DB)</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://vercel.com">Vercel</a> (front end deploy)</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://aws.amazon.com/s3/">AWS S3</a> (Amazon service for file storage, images and videos for this site)</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://ckeditor.com/ckeditor-5/">CKEditor</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://github.com/">GitHub</a>, <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://desktop.github.com/">Github Desktop</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.godaddy.com/">GoDaddy</a> (Domain and email server)</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.w3schools.com/html/">HTML</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.w3schools.com/css/default.asp">CSS</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.w3schools.com/bootstrap4/default.asp">Bootstrap</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://code.visualstudio.com/">Visual Studio Code</a> (IDE)</li></ul>&nbsp;The options below are free-ish, in the sense that so far I haven't had to pay anything for any of them (I did some attempts using AWS EC2 and other things that cost me a buck of two but they aren't in the list of what I ended up using). That said they are mostly the inferior tier of some package offering, so your mileage may vary in terms of costs if you go with this route.&nbsp;Thanks for checking this out and reach out if you give a go at anything like this or know of ways to improve it!

website uplift to handle more complex structures

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Website uplift

<h1>Here are some of the consumables I use for my projects, i will be moving here any parts i find myself reusing time and again.</h1><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3nvat6w">solder wire</a> - I use the lead one because it is easier, but with enough skill you should be able to move to lead-free wires<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2Gvllkn">rosin</a> - makes soldering easier<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3jL15cz">liquid tape</a> - helps to prevent shorting<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3dfG8E9">nozzle socks</a> - I am actually not sure that does anything, but the cool kids put in their mk3s, so faking it until I make it here<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2TGFPcC">cyanoacrylate glue</a> - mistakes happen, and that is the ctrl+z<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2SGIYc5">3:1 heat shrink with glue</a> - look for the one with glue, it is much easier to get it to stick<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3lvIUsn">99% ipa</a> - if I have a secret to get pla to stick to a bed, is this thing<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/38H3JgS">M2 and M2.5 assorted screws </a>&nbsp;- most Raspberry Pi related parts appear to use M2.5, so having a set of assorted short screws comes in handy. I like the dark countersunk flat tops, but any will do.<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/38AbK7r">tip tinner</a> - to keep the solder iron in tip top condition&nbsp;&nbsp;

Hardware used for the projects that is consumed in the process

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Consumables

<h1>DIY project to assemble a working computer running two architectures.</h1>msg has been featured at:<a href="https://cyberdeck.cafe/mix/msg">cyberdeck.cafe</a> - community site for all things cyberdeck.&nbsp;

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workshop

As the name suggests, these are tools I have used to assemble the msg. I am thinking on sharing here mainly hardware-related tools, but that could change.

Welcome to the msg lab!

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