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blog to share project updates. Tech, cyberdecks, hardware, software and maybe food and clothes

MSG Lab

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<h1>MSG Cyberdeck v2</h1>This is an update to the <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://msglab.co/room/msg-background">MSG Cyberdeck</a> introduced last summer.&nbsp;<div class="raw-html-embed"><div class="youtube-container"><iframe class="youtube-video" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/54wqH243yuw" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0"></iframe></div></div>&nbsp;Main changes are:<ul><li>Improved air flow: the <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2ReBnUs">Noctua</a> fan has been moved to the top, creating a natural upwards flow between the <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3u97O5w">NUC</a> and Pi</li><li>Back bay has been made a little more spacious to protect the <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3nyd6oE">Micro SD</a> card at the end of the pi zero</li><li>Internal space has been redone to reduce the number of walls and increase space between parts. That made assembly and maintenance much easier. For example now you can take the keyboard out and put it back in without removing the <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3u97O5w">NUC</a> unit</li><li>Hinges have been redone to make them work better. They are still 3D printed, but the nut is now hidden</li><li>Right side panel has been simplified. <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/339Y2UB">Mini Black Hacker Hat</a> has been replaced with a <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/hat-hacker-hat">Hat Hacker Hat</a> and the <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3xL6IPJ">eink</a> has been separated from the bottom panel. In the prior version there were ~50 solder joints on the panel to the right of the<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3xwhjhf"> 7 inch LCD</a>. Now there are none, making the assembly and maintenance much easier. It is also much easier now to unplug any parts for testing/debugging or to plug parts that would have conflicted with the SPI or I2C pins</li><li>LCD panel has been upgraded to a <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3xwhjhf">QLED version</a> with toughened glass. Looks better, is thicker that's all I noticed</li><li>(Pending) Upgraded strap using fancier webbing and hardware.</li><li>The power plug for the NUC has been moved to the back</li><li>The power for the pi was previously working off the NUC, charging as the NUC was on. That limited the portability of the unit, since once the pi was out of batteries it depended on the nuc finding a 19V source to charge. Now the Pi powering is independent from that of the NUC. A barrel jack on the right side allows to charge the pi. I custom made a barrel jack - USB A cable so i can charge the NUC from any USB pack</li><li>Several parts have been “sculpted” for example the kvm switch now sits tight on an indentation and it is bolted to the bottom plate for extra protection</li><li>A 3 line indented pattern was added to the plate behind the keyboard, purely artsy stuff I came up with. Similarly I added a D-Loop screw behind the mirror to clip stuff there.</li><li>My wife made a very fancy and comfortable new strap for it, we will all agree that it looks great!</li><li>Many more small changes to the 3D Design, basically to address issues I had assembling it or using it during the first few months I had it</li></ul>&nbsp;Most of the parts are the same as in the <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://msglab.co/room/msg-parts">V1</a>, the ones that have been changed are:<ul><li>New upgraded <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3xwhjhf">QLED 7 inch display</a></li><li>Male to female ribbons (<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3xAwYft">long</a> and <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3xEMg2T">short</a>) for the redesigned right-side back panel</li><li>I got a bunch of new M2.5 and M3 screws. Some to get <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3eIOghQ">specific lengths</a> and some to get a look I <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3aQcRjw">liked</a>.</li></ul>For convenience here are the list of the parts that stayed the same:<h3>&nbsp;</h3>Main Components:<ul><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2SFvgGl">NUC (sleek chassis)</a> - without a doubt the biggest money pit in the whole build, up there with buying the prusa to 3dprint the case. You can swap it for the i3. I actually bought one and used it for testing. Or you could even bypass the whole nuc business and use the space for extra batteries and have a pi deck that runs for a couple of days.</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2XPpB3e">RAM</a> - NUC Kit doesn't come with it, make sure to buy a compatible one since it is smaller than the regular sticks</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3nQxH5V">Hard Drive</a> - again, the NUC kit doesn't come with that, I went with an NVME because it is snappy and doesn't add any volume to the build.</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2SJYOT2">raspberry pi 4b</a> - I am using the 4GB of RAM one here, but it really comes down to what you are trying to do with it.</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://olkb.com/collections/planck">planck keyboard</a> - Bought one of those around the summer of 2019 and it has been my main driver since. When thinking on which one to use on my deck I went with more of the same. My “other” one is the EZ that comes ready to use, here I went for a more assembled version, since I wanted to keep flexibility on some things, I may replace the aluminum enclosure with a 3d printed one to make room for taller caps. stay tuned.</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2SIgoXS">x728 18650 ups</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3jMlPkc">2 port kvm switch</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.imrbatteries.com/samsung-36g-18650-3600mah-10a-battery/">18650 batteries (2x)</a> - I have 4 of those, 2 is not really enough to get the thing going for a day. I will try to find room to add the other 2 at some point. That said, those are the highest capacity ones I saw around.</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/microdot-phat?variant=25454635591">micro dot phat</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.retrocution.com/product/tiny-usb-hub-4-port/">Retrocution usb hub</a> - tinties hub I've seen, works pretty well. We use that because the kvm only gives 2 ports, one for the keyboard and one for the mouse. We break the one for the mouse to also provide a usb port for the lcd touch panel.</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://zealpc.net/products/aqua-zilent">Zealio zilent switches</a> - I tried using some trash pandas from novelkeys, but the box under the keyboard acts as an echo chamber and makes them way to loud. zilents are ok.</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://pimpmykeyboard.com/dsa-combat-keyset-sublimated/">keycaps</a> - the current build fits DSA profile (which i got form the on sale section of sa plastics), but I plan on adjusting it to accommodate cherry profiles since I am waiting on the GMK laser from last Drop.</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3nyd3J4">Prusament pla for main parts</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3iMh4pu">SpiderMaker pla for accents</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/hat-hacker-hat">hat hacker hat</a> - That tops the tower of Pi hats, it actually helps holding the 18650s in place too. I don't really use the exposed gpio there, but that could change, maybe a DHT11….</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3lteo1L">paracord for usb cable</a> - vanity thing, but why not. There is some usb cable exposed to run the lcd screen and touch panel, so I went ahead and did a custom sleeveing there.</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2SK0sUI">female usb panel mount</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3ny5JwS">hook for strap</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3jLKSEc">2.13 inch eInk screen</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/pico-hat-hacker">pico hat hacker</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3nq7igm">6 inch HDMI Cable for NUC</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3iJcXL9">16mm push button for SWX</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32697109472.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dxhfkUu">16MM push button for RPI</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000493238664.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dIenRQV">16MM push button for NUC</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/34CG11H">Noctua 40mm 5v fan</a> - Make sure to buy a 10mm version that works off 5V. I am not using PWM, but you could use that to control the speed via the Raspberry Pi.</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2STrGst">hdmi cable for taspberry pi</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/sparkfun-usb-type-a-female-breakout">usb female jack</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3nxX3Xh">1ft HDMI cable for the screen</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3lyL5uH">D-ring for strap</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3jE6p1v">90 degree angle for power cord</a></li></ul>&nbsp;Screws &amp; Co:<ul><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3llGHPL">short m3 screws 10mm are the most used here</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2SxJPvx">long m3 screws for the hinge</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2SvVTNJ">Nylon washers for the hinge</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/36LX04v">5.5 x 2.5 mm barrel jack for power input</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2I1yQZd">26 awg hook up wire</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3d7dtBl">m3 heat inserts</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2SxmrhF">m2.5 heat inserts</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2I1A4DN">4pin connector for USB internal wiring</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3nw1FNQ">jst-ph 2.0 connectors for wiring</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2SGIYc5">3:1 heat shrink with glue</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2GTSrKc">micro usb male connectors</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/33K6r2u">usb male connectors</a></li></ul>&nbsp;All the updated STL files can be found at <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4844883">Thingiverse</a> and <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/66293-msg-cyberdeck-v2">Prusa</a>The code used to run the eink and MicroDot can be found at my <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://github.com/msglab">GitHub</a>.

Updated version of the MSG Cyberdeck. Easier to assemble, run and maintain.

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MSG Cyberdeck v2

<h1>This video shows how to switch between the Windows 10 in the NUC and the Debian Linux distro in the Raspberry Pi 4</h1>&nbsp;<div class="raw-html-embed"><div class="youtube-container"><iframe class="youtube-video" allowfullscreen="" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Q9TuECrZVFY" frameborder="0"></iframe></div></div>&nbsp;To put the MSG together I used a lot of parts. And the vast majority ended up not working out. With that in mind, I will try to be as complete as possible listing the ones that actually ended up being used. Also, many choices were made to use stuff I had at hand, and better options may be available out there. Note that as an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.<h3>&nbsp;</h3><h3>Main Components:</h3><ul><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2SFvgGl">NUC (sleek chassis)</a> - without a doubt the biggest money pit in the whole build, up there with buying the prusa to 3dprint the case. You can swap it for the i3. I actually bought one and used it for testing. Or you could even bypass the whole nuc business and use the space for extra batteries and have a pi deck that runs for a couple of days.</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2XPpB3e">RAM</a> - NUC Kit doesn't come with it, make sure to buy a compatible one since it is smaller than the regular sticks</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3nQxH5V">Hard Drive</a> - again, the NUC kit doesn't come with that, I went with an NVME because it is snappy and doesn't add any volume to the build.</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2SJYOT2">raspberry pi 4b</a> - I am using the 4GB of RAM one here, but it really comes down to what you are trying to do with it.</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://olkb.com/collections/planck">planck keyboard</a> - Bought one of those around the summer of 2019 and it has been my main driver since. When thinking on which one to use on my deck I went with more of the same. My “other” one is the EZ that comes ready to use, here I went for a more assembled version, since I wanted to keep flexibility on some things, I may replace the aluminum enclosure with a 3d printed one to make room for taller caps. stay tuned.</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2SIgoXS">x728 18650 ups</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2HYAgUh">7 Inch screen</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3jMlPkc">2 port kvm switch</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.imrbatteries.com/samsung-36g-18650-3600mah-10a-battery/">18650 batteries (2x)</a> - I have 4 of those, 2 is not really enough to get the thing going for a day. I will try to find room to add the other 2 at some point. That said, those are the highest capacity ones I saw around.</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/microdot-phat?variant=25454635591">micro dot phat</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.retrocution.com/product/tiny-usb-hub-4-port/">usb huu</a> - tinties hub I've seen, works pretty well. We use that because the kvm only gives 2 ports, one for the keyboard and one for the mouse. We break the one for the mouse to also provide a usb port for the lcd touch panel.</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://zealpc.net/products/aqua-zilent">zilent switches</a> - I tried using some trash pandas from novelkeys, but the box under the keyboard acts as an echo chamber and makes them way to loud. zilents are ok.</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://pimpmykeyboard.com/dsa-combat-keyset-sublimated/">keycaps</a> - the current build fits DSA profile (which i got form the on sale section of sa plastics), but I plan on adjusting it to accommodate cherry profiles since I am waiting on the GMK laser from last Drop.</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3nyd3J4">pla for main parts</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3iMh4pu">pla for accents</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/339Y2UB">mini hacker hat</a> - this is what holds the micro dot phat. there is a lot of soldering behind it, because every pin of the ribbon need to be flipped and soldered, then the eInk pins have to be added as well in the back. It doesn't make sense but when you put it together it will be an a-ha! moment.</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/hat-hacker-hat">hat hacker hat</a> - That tops the tower of Pi hats, it actually helps holding the 18650s in place too. I don't really use the exposed gpio there, but that could change, maybe a DHT11….</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3lteo1L">paracord for usb cable</a> - vanity thing, but why not. There is some usb cable exposed to run the lcd screen and touch panel, so I went ahead and did a custom sleeveing there.</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2SK0sUI">female usb panel mount</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3ny5JwS">hook for strap</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3jLKSEc">2.13 inch eInk screen</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/pico-hat-hacker">pico hat hacker</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3nq7igm">6 inch HDMI Cable for NUC</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3iJcXL9">16mm push button for SWX</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32697109472.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dxhfkUu">16MM push button for RPI</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000493238664.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dIenRQV">16MM push button for NUC</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/34CG11H">Noctua 40mm 5v fan</a> - Make sure to buy a 10mm version that works off 5V. I am not using PWM, but you could use that to control the speed via the Raspberry Pi.</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2STrGst">hdmi cable for taspberry pi</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/sparkfun-usb-type-a-female-breakout">usb female jack</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3nxX3Xh">1ft HDMI cable for the screen</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3lyL5uH">D-ring for strap</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3jE6p1v">90 degree angle for power cord</a></li></ul>&nbsp;<h3>Screws &amp; Co:</h3><ul><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3llGHPL">short m3 screws 10mm are the most used here</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2SxJPvx">long m3 screws for the hinge</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2SvVTNJ">Nylon washers for the hinge</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/36LX04v">5.5 x 2.5 mm barrel jack for power input</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2I1yQZd">26 awg hook up wire</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3d7dtBl">m3 heat inserts</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2SxmrhF">m2.5 heat inserts</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2I1A4DN">4pin connector for USB internal wiring</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3nw1FNQ">jst-ph 2.0 connectors for wiring</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2SGIYc5">3:1 heat shrink with glue</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2GTSrKc">micro usb male connectors</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/33K6r2u">usb male connectors</a></li></ul>&nbsp;

Parts used to assemble the msg and commentary on why and potential alternatives

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MSG Cyberdeck - Parts

<h1>LoRa MSG</h1>Since I learned about <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LoRa">LoRa</a> I was curious about getting a communicator. I always liked walkie-talkies, and given that I go camping a few times a year, having the ability to communicate in remote areas with people nearby would be handy. With that as my motivation I started to explore the ways to leverage LoRa devices to put together a communicator tool.Here is the current solution, which is base don the keyboard FeatherWing, Adafruit feathers and circuit python&nbsp;<div class="raw-html-embed"><div class="youtube-container"><iframe class="youtube-video" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/wDU0xj9oBuM" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0"></iframe></div></div>&nbsp;<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.solder.party/">Solder Party</a> put together a nice keyboard-screen combo basically replicating a blackberry. The package needs a FeatherWing added on the back to work, but once you add it, you are good to go. On their page they suggest the <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3c8JryM">M0 with integrated LoRa</a> as an option. Unfortunately that doesn't work with Circuit Python. The M0 has a paltry 40k of memory, which is enough for the LoRa scripts but not for the ones needed to operate the screen and keyboard. I plan to try using Arduino on the V2 which may be able to run on the M0. That could save ~10mm in thicknessTo work around this limitation I bought the M4 Feather and added the LoRa module to it. That worked right away.&nbsp;Parts:<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/keyboard-featherwing-qwerty-keyboard-2-6-lcd">FeatherWing Keyboard</a> from Solder Party - an elegant solution to providing a screen big enough for a messenger and a keyboard for user input.<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/4759">Feather M4</a> - This is a fairly capable module, given the flexibility of the keyboard/lcd combo you could add some code to run other software besides the lora module for a more capable device.<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/3231">LoRa FeatherWing</a> - The radio chip, make sure to buy the one relevant to your region, 900 MHz (which gets software tuned to 915 MHz for the US)<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3ckHcbN">Battery</a> - Be careful with the polarity, for some reason he one I bought from amazon had the opposite than what the FeatherWing expects. If you get that wrong you'll see some white smoke and that is rarely a good sign. I think that Adafruit sells them with the right polarity, so don't assume that it is right or it is wrong, test it.<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3cfFjg6">uFL </a>antenna connector - The LoRa FeatherWing doesn't have one, you want this one because the space is limited and we want the antenna to point up.<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3sV8lb5">Antenna</a> - make sure to get one for right frequency<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/39UVwVq">Heat Inserts</a> - I really like how they look and ensure that the screws hold the thing together<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3f5Bw6A">M2.5 12mm</a> countersunk screws - I used Philips ones, but ordered the hex ones. I think they'll look better<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3oBciy9">Wrist Lanyard Strap</a>&nbsp; - Very optional, I think it looks cool and gives it a more retro feel<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/2940">Header Kit for Feather</a>any header with enough pins for a feather&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://nars-bucket.s3.amazonaws.com/msg_lora_open_dd1fec64b0.webp" alt=""></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;The sharing conundrum:<ul><li>I don't mind sharing the code I use or the STLs but I am having the following dilemmas:<ul><li>The hardware is not perfectly replicated. The 2 units I got had different location for the keyboard. Also The soldering on the feathers left the USB-C connector at different heights. I fixed that by creating a couple of models and adjusted them on Fusion. You may have similar issues.</li><li>The code is of veeery low quality. I can't stress this enough. It is basically a mishmash of the examples on the <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.solder.party/docs/keyboard-featherwing/">solder party website</a> and <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://learn.adafruit.com/radio-featherwing/circuitpython-for-rfm69">adafruit</a>. It is incomplete and probably buggy. Using it “as-is” is likely to lead to frustration.</li></ul></li></ul>That said:<ul><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4736609">STLs of the blue version</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://github.com/msglab/msglab">Circuit Python Code used</a></li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://nars-bucket.s3.amazonaws.com/lora_msg_3d_model_bacd8f44f7.webp" alt=""></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;Youtube video of the first working version, note that there is significant lag when typing and that the units are operated via usb-c cable. These shortcomings are fixed in the final version from the earlier video.<div class="raw-html-embed"><div class="youtube-container"><iframe class="youtube-video" allowfullscreen="" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Q3RzViIbD9M" frameborder="0"></iframe></div></div>&nbsp;The Fails:My original intention was to make the LoRa msg a raspberry pi zero based project. The raspberry pi zero has plenty of power to run the LoRa module, a keyboard and a screen. In my tests the system works but it is too large size-wise.&nbsp;Parts:<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/4074">Lora Bonnet</a>: An all-in-one solution to put on top of your raspberry pi zero to add LoRa capabilities<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3nG0om7">Raspberry Pi Zero W</a> - you can use this one or the <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/39qHoTA">WH</a> if you want to save yourself some soldering<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/39eq8lv">screen</a> - I had this one laying around. The addition of HDMI cables makes the whole package pretty big. I experimented with TFT screens and I was able to get them to work as “main” screens, with the terminal displaying and working there. But I had issues with sharing the SPI ports for the main screen and the LoRa module.&nbsp;Outcome: Setup is straightforward and it works well as a dongle for a computer. The tiny screen on the bonnet isn't really useful for reading messages and it doesn't have a keyboard for input. For a keyboard, I planned on using the <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://msglab.co/room/pocket-type">PocketType</a>. The number of cables, connections and parts would have made the device the size of a brick.&nbsp;Other fails involved trying a standalone LoRa module on a few pins and using the remaining pins for some small TFT screen. I had issues enabling the two SPI devices, but that may be a workable solution. At any rate the issues with the keyboard for input would still be there.&nbsp;Next Steps: I plan on redoing the code on Arduino&nbsp;&nbsp;

A LoRa Messenger, to text where nothing else can

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LoRa MSG

<h1>LoRa MSG Assembly</h1>As I learned that some people are trying to assemble the <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://msglab.co/room/lo-ra-msg">LoRa messenger</a> I shared the other day, I decided to put together a post showing how to assemble it.&nbsp;<h3>Parts:</h3><ul><li>3d Printed Parts (<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4736609">stl files to download</a>)</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/4759">Adafruit M4 Feather M4</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/3231">Lora FeatherWing</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3r9ho6C">M2.5 Heat Inserts</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3cfFjg6">uFL</a> antenna connector</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3sV8lb5">Antenna</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3oBciy9">Wrist Lanyard Strap</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/2940">Header Kit for Feather</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3f5Bw6A">M2.5 12mm</a> countersunk screws</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3ckHcbN">Battery</a> - Be careful with the polarity, for some reason he one I bought from amazon had the opposite than what the FeatherWing expects. If you get that wrong you'll see some white smoke and that is rarely a good sign. I think that Adafruit sells them with the right polarity, so don't assume that it is right or it is wrong, test it.</li><li>any header with enough pins for a feather</li></ul>&nbsp;<h3>Tools:</h3><ul><li>Solder setup (check the <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://msglab.co/room/hardware">hardware</a> page): solder iron, solder wire, reel stand, rosin paste, heat insert solder tips,</li><li>3D printer setup (again, check the hardware page)</li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://nars-bucket.s3.amazonaws.com/lora_assembly_all_parts_d063adfc84.webp" alt=""></figure>&nbsp;<h3>Step 1</h3>First we need to prepare the chips:<ul><li>Solder the short feather headers to the lora chip</li><li>Solder the uFL antenna connector to the lora chip</li><li>Solder a set of pins to the M4 chip, exposing the full pin (remove the black plastics) that will allow the connections on both sides using the minimum space</li></ul>&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://nars-bucket.s3.amazonaws.com/lora_assembly_chip_sides_b2d42cccea.webp" alt=""></figure>&nbsp;<h3>Step 2</h3>We need to connect a pin for the RST and CS pins (We could wire the IRQ, but it is not needed for the current setup). We are going to connect them to the D12 and D13 pins. Note that the <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://github.com/msglab/msg-lora/blob/master/code.py">code</a> we use then maps it accordingly:<code>#&nbsp;Define&nbsp;pins&nbsp;connected&nbsp;to&nbsp;the&nbsp;chip,&nbsp;use&nbsp;these&nbsp;if&nbsp;wiring&nbsp;up&nbsp;the&nbsp;breakout&nbsp;according&nbsp;to&nbsp;the&nbsp;guide:</code><code>CS</code><code>&nbsp;</code><code>=</code><code>&nbsp;digitalio.</code><code>DigitalInOut</code><code>(</code><code>board.D13</code><code>)</code><code>RESET</code><code>&nbsp;</code><code>=</code><code>&nbsp;digitalio.</code><code>DigitalInOut</code><code>(</code><code>board.D12</code><code>)</code>&nbsp;After we are done soldering we can add the Antenna cable to the uFL connector.&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://nars-bucket.s3.amazonaws.com/lora_assembly_chip_top_01e069ca69.webp" alt=""></figure>&nbsp;<h3>Step 3</h3>We'll add the Heat inserts to the back plate. this is actually quite satisfying with the hakko setup.Then we'll screw the antenna on the plate<figure class="image"><img src="https://nars-bucket.s3.amazonaws.com/lora_assembly_heat_inserts_1aa3bf5723.webp" alt=""></figure>&nbsp;<h3>Step 4 (OPTIONAL)</h3>Depending on the polarity of your battery, you may need to flip it to match the Feather JST connector. The one I bought needed that.&nbsp;<h3>Step 5</h3>We prepare the “sandwich”:1 ) Place the Front Panel face down on the working area2 ) Place the FeatherWing Keyboard PCB on top of it3) Add the Middle Panel4) Connect M4 to the FeatherWing Keyboard5) Connect the battery to the M4. Depending on the battery model you use, it may be a bit loose. In my case I added a furniture anti-slip patch I had laying around. That also help to absorb some of the shocks it may get.6) Connect the LoRa chip to the M47) Add the back panel, make sure to wiggle it until everything closes and nothing is pinched8) Place the screws on the front and tighten them up in an “X” in rounds, to ensure that everything is tightening up without force.9) Add the lanyard to the top&nbsp;&nbsp;<h3>Congratulations! you assembled the LoRa messenger!</h3>&nbsp;The code can be found in the <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://github.com/msglab/msglab">GitHub</a> and the LoRa setup is well explained in the <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-feather-m4-can-express">Adafruit</a> website.

Step by step instructions to assemble the LoRa MSG

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LoRa MSG Assembly

<h1>The MSG Cyberdeck is a deck with enough tricks under the hood to be your daily driver for computing, hacking, learning and experimenting. Since it is a 3D printed DIY build, repairs and upgrades are core to the MSG capabilities.&nbsp;</h1>Why would you want to build something like this?Well maybe because you want:<ul><li>Control over the hardware on your electronics (no microphones or cameras for example)</li><li>To run all your boring corp software (Win 10, Excel…)</li><li>To be able to open, repair, improve, change your hardware</li><li>To learn electronics with linux, raspberry, arduino…</li><li>To have a mechanical keyboard on a portable device</li><li>To have something to do with all the newfound free time at home</li><li>To get frowned upon at airports if they stick around long enough for you to use one again</li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://nars-bucket.s3.amazonaws.com/top_front_c741ec9886.webp" alt=""></figure>The current build includes an i7 NUC on the left and a raspberry pi 4 on the right.The raspberry pi is able to run on the go thanks to a couple of 3.6mAh 18650.The front has the keyboard and under it there is a KVM switch that allows the msg to share the screen, keyboard and a usb plug between both systems, for a seamless transition.The screen is a 7inch touchscreen, leaving some space to the right of it that I used to add an eInk display, breakout board and a <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/microdot-phat?variant=25454635591">Pimoroni micro dot phat</a>.&nbsp;Ok, now that you are semi-convinced. This site's hope is to help you out putting together your very own msg. If you consider embarking on the project, please reach out and also join the cyberdeck <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://discord.gg/s8wqtpe">discord</a> to share your experience!&nbsp;

The msg, a versatile cyberdeck powered by an i7 intel NUC and a Raspberry Pi 4. It also sports an ortho 40% Planck mechanical keyboard.

MSG Cyberdeck

<h1>Here are some of the consumables I use for my projects, I will be moving here any parts that I find myself reusing time and again.</h1>&nbsp;<h3>Solder / De-Solder</h3><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3e3Xghb">lead free solder wire</a> - Lead free solder wire. Make sure to adjust the soldering iron to work with those, at least to 750. this one is <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Restriction_of_Hazardous_Substances_Directive">ROHS</a> compliant&nbsp;<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3mSJ7qU">rosin flux paste</a> - Makes soldering easier. This one is <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Restriction_of_Hazardous_Substances_Directive">ROHS</a> compliant.<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3frL5Nr">desoldering wick</a> - Good for cleaning up small amounts of solder or holes after removing the blobs with the <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3m5oEPq">solder sucker</a><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/38AbK7r">tip tinner</a> - to keep the solder iron in tip top condition&nbsp;<h3>Glue / Cover</h3><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3jL15cz">liquid tape</a> - helps to prevent shorting<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2TGFPcC">cyanoacrylate glue</a> - mistakes happen, and that is the ctrl+z<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2SGIYc5">3:1 heat shrink with glue</a> - look for the one with glue, it is much easier to get it to stick&nbsp;<h3>3D Printing</h3><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3dfG8E9">nozzle socks</a> - I am actually not sure that does anything, but the cool kids put in their mk3s, so faking it until I make it here<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3lvIUsn">99% ipa</a> - if I have a secret to get pla to stick to a bed, is this thing&nbsp;<h3>Screws</h3><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/38H3JgS">M2 and M2.5 assorted screws&nbsp;</a> - most Raspberry Pi related parts appear to use M2.5, so having a set of assorted short screws comes in handy. I like the dark countersunk flat tops, but any will do.&nbsp;

Hardware used for the projects that is consumed in the process

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Consumables

<h1>Here are the tools I have been using to design and assemble my projects. Many of them can be replaced by cheaper (or pricier) options, these just happen to be the ones I have. &nbsp;</h1>&nbsp;<h3>Desk / Design</h3><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2IcIvfN">self-healing cutting mat</a> - insurance for your desk top.<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2SFpc0s">caliper</a> - 3D design usually involved fitting different parts, including components you bought and other parts you design. Precise measurements are necessary to make it work.<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/31VuKZJ">head lamp</a> - great for poorly lit desks, and does more than the lamp on the <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/31RXfYw">magnifier</a> of the helping hands<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3mtfnQ6">scissors</a> - ehh.. for cutting<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2InGJcg">micro cutter</a> - to clip the tips after solder or pla at an anglerotex - I got that off eBay, the ones for sale now (like the dymo on amazon) appear to be very poorly build by comparison<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2MVKSWF">safety glasses</a> - after a bit from the dremel split and cracked my regular glasses, decided to buy those and use them when operating anything that spins<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2K5w3j8">dremel</a> - I am not very good at actually using the dremel, but it is pretty helpful for modifying prints without needing to do a full reprint<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3uUWxWl">dremel tungsten bits</a> - those are great to eat through metal.&nbsp;<h3>3D Printing</h3><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-printers/180-original-prusa-i3-mk3s-kit.html#">Prusa MK3s</a> - 3D printer, there are plenty out there. This is the one I have and seems to be ok.<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2GKzRV0">knives to remove supports</a> - better than the <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/35PwYv7">x-acto</a> set i have, because the blades are thicker, which comes in handy for prying supports<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3dhbnz0">de-burring tool</a> -great for removing brims on 3d printed parts.&nbsp;<h3>Soldering</h3><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3lwLIVT">soldering iron</a> - There are many out there, pricier and cheaper. This is my third one, and so far is the best. Heats up quick, stays hot. I use it for soldering and for heat inserts.<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/36uSUwG">heat insert tips </a>- they are great to get the heat inserts in PLA/PETG to prepare for the use of screws<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/30OvuiN">helping hands</a> - keep things in place for soldering while your hands deal with the iron and the solder wire<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/36Zct1h">solder reel stand</a> - makes it easy to get the solder wire while holding the hot iron with the other hand<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3iKlFZi">smoke absorber</a> - important if you solder with lead-based tin<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/34I0X7o">wire stripper</a> - you want the one for wires thinner than 20… which I eventually learned means higher numbers<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3noCnA2">ESD-safe brush</a> - any brush will do to clean dust and remove residue<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3u8YlKS">solder sucker</a> - to remove solder blobs.. 'cause mistakes do happen<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3wYl4vA">pcb vise</a> - that one is a bit of a splurge. It does a great job at holding any pcb during soldering and takes very little space.<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2OSNx4F">iron tip cleaner</a> - it is a bit more convenient to use than the one that came with the iron<figure class="image"><img src="https://nars-bucket.s3.amazonaws.com/desolder_4c8f010d0d.webp" alt=""><figcaption>De-soldering a 40pin connector is easier with the vise and the pump</figcaption></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;<h3>Electrical Gear</h3><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3amOfOs">multi-meter</a> - I use it mainly to test voltages and polarity, but it can also check a few more things.<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3t97mUR">USB tester</a> - This little dongle checks voltages at USB ports as well as the power consumption.<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3mQF2DK">nitecore battery charger</a> - to charge 18650 batteries&nbsp;<h3>Assembling</h3><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2If0aUd">screwdriver</a> - any will do, but an electric one makes it easier on your wrist<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3nfubCz">small bits and sundries electronics tools</a> - they play well with the electric screwdriver<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2SFptAw">heat gun</a> - I mainly use it for shrinking.. shrink wrap<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3luYl3Q">glue gun</a> - I use it to protect some solder joints and cables from breaking or to add extra isolation so they don't peel off and touch metal parts,&nbsp;

Tools that I used to assemble the msg or other projects

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Hardware

<h1>Assembling a blog on the cheap and with no experience</h1>Early October 2020 I bought a domain at Go Daddy and started to put together a site to summarize my experience building the msg and also as a place to aggregate information for anyone trying to build one. My experience with building sites was limited to a Drupal site I put together around 2009 to lease apartments.. and from what I gathered there have been some changes to how sites are built in the meantime. My first build was a GitHub Page, using the following tech:<ul><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://github.com/">GitHub</a>, <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://desktop.github.com/">Github Desktop</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.godaddy.com/">GoDaddy</a> (Domain and email server)</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.w3schools.com/html/">HTML</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.w3schools.com/css/default.asp">CSS</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.w3schools.com/js/default.asp">JavaScript</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.w3schools.com/bootstrap4/default.asp">Bootstrap</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://code.visualstudio.com/">Visual Studio Code</a></li></ul>All of these options are free and you can great support at <a href="mainly learned from w3schools.com, a great site for anyone getting started)">w3schools</a> , so a site like that should be doable at no cost beyond the mental health issues that come from working with <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.reddit.com/r/ProgrammerHumor/">code</a>The site was ok for about 5 pages, with a decent navigation bar (bootstrap) and a fancy-ish dark theme mode I put together by writing a JavaScript that toggled the css. The problem was that if you didn't have blazing fast internet, the css switch created a horrendous <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://joshwcomeau.com/gatsby/dark-mode/">flash</a>. &nbsp;After a couple of weeks of running the site, it was obvious that having to assemble every HTML page manually was more craft than I intended to do for this site, so I started to learn more about modern sites. The current site uses the following tech:&nbsp;<ul><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://nextjs.org/">Next.js</a> (i.e. <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.w3schools.com/js/default.asp">JavaScript</a>, <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://reactjs.org/">React</a>)</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://strapi.io/">Strapi</a> (CMS)</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://styled-components.com/">Styled Components</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://heroku.com">Heroku</a> (Back end deploy)</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.postgresql.org/">PostgreSQL</a> (DB)</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://vercel.com">Vercel</a> (front end deploy)</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://aws.amazon.com/s3/">AWS S3</a> (Amazon service for file storage, images and videos for this site)</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://ckeditor.com/ckeditor-5/">CKEditor</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://github.com/">GitHub</a>, <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://desktop.github.com/">Github Desktop</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.godaddy.com/">GoDaddy</a> (Domain and email server)</li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.w3schools.com/html/">HTML</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.w3schools.com/css/default.asp">CSS</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.w3schools.com/bootstrap4/default.asp">Bootstrap</a></li><li><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://code.visualstudio.com/">Visual Studio Code</a> (IDE)</li></ul>&nbsp;The options above are free-ish, in the sense that so far I haven't had to pay anything for any of them (I did some attempts using AWS EC2 and other things that cost me a buck of two but they aren't in the list of what I ended up using). That said they are mostly the inferior tier of some package offering, so your mileage may vary in terms of costs if you go with this route.February 2021 Update: On months where I get a few days with 500-1k visitors per day, I do actually run against the AWS S3 free tier level. So far I paid about $15 in AWS since October, mostly from the periods where I released new stuff and got people checking it out. Quiet months are still free.Thanks for checking this out and reach out if you give a go at anything like this or know of ways to improve it!

website uplift to handle more complex structures

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Website Uplift

<h1>Design and build a simple product with fusion 360 and a 3D printer</h1>The suction holder that came with the simplehuman <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/33eW9Xk">squeegee</a> kept falling, so we ended up leaving it on the sink countertop. That wasn't ideal, and my wife tasked me with coming up with a solution. I thought it would be a good idea to 3D design it and print it, because if you got a hammer everything looks like a nail.I was able to put together a working solution in about an hour, including print time. I thought I may share it for people getting started with 3D design and printing. So I grabbed the caliper and measured the shower rod thickness (26mm) and the hole on the squeegee (11mm).&nbsp;What I used:<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/39l6O6u">Caliper</a> - You want a somewhat snug fit, and since you are the one designing it and printing it, may as well get it!<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-printers/180-original-prusa-i3-mk3s-kit.html#">Prusa MK3S</a> - this is such a small and simple part that any printer should be able to do it, this one just happen to be the one I have.<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/personal">Fusion 360</a> - the free (hobbyist) version is more than enough.<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.prusa3d.com/prusaslicer/">PrusaSlicer</a> - takes the stl output from Fusion 360 and generates the gcode files that your printer can use.<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3pXHfP1">PLA</a> - Any color will do, I am actually thinking on reprinting it with PETG to better handle the temperature in the shower. I didn't do any post-printing work, but you probably want to coat it with something to prevent molding. I will update this post if I need to reprint it due to heat or humidity issues.&nbsp;Steps:1 - Sketch. This is the starting point for Fusion 360 models. The more you know about the final product, the better the sketch can be and that makes the work easier later. To get the design below you just need to play with the line, circle and square designs. Add some dimensions to it and you are good to go.<figure class="image"><img src="https://nars-bucket.s3.amazonaws.com/sketch_1_1603f9176a.webp" alt=""></figure>&nbsp;2 - Trim. That is the scissors tool on the bar. It does a pretty good job at identifying the parts you don't need.<figure class="image"><img src="https://nars-bucket.s3.amazonaws.com/post_trim_a2012d20a9.webp" alt=""></figure>&nbsp;3 - Extrude. I made it 7mm tall. And then click on the edges and “fillet” them (it is one of the icons on the top). I used a 3mm fillet on each side and 1mm on the ends.Hint: Using 3.5mm would have made the thing circular since 3.5 on each side makes it 7mm. Leaving 1mm of flat space will make it much easier to print, since the first layer will have more surface to stay attached to the bed<figure class="image"><img src="https://nars-bucket.s3.amazonaws.com/extruded_f29375bc93.webp" alt=""></figure>&nbsp;4 - Print it. This is 2077, ok 2020.. we print things in 3 dimensions. I used the default settings in the Prusa Slicer. Changed the infill to 40%, but the default was probably fine. No raft, no supports, no brim. The 1mm we left of flat space should be enough to make it work.<figure class="image"><img src="https://nars-bucket.s3.amazonaws.com/in_print_bed_e098fe5154.webp" alt=""></figure>&nbsp;5 - Hang it like the piece of art it is and admire it.<figure class="image"><img src="https://nars-bucket.s3.amazonaws.com/trying_it_out_57baf0a164.jpg" alt=""></figure>

A quick project to design and 3D print a squeegee holder

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HowTo - Fusion 360 and 3D Print

This section will cover the software I used to develop the msg as well the software you may want to use to get started with it.Development Software:<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.tinkercad.com/">TinkerCad</a> - I started with TinkerCad, and I would recommend it to anyone getting started with 3D design with not background on.. well.. anything related to 3D design.<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/personal">Fusion 360 </a>- after about ½ year toying with TinkerCad I moved the project to Fusion 360 and continued there, it is really the natural step once you get comfortable with the basicsTinkerCad is free, and I only used the free / hobbyst version of Fusion 360, which is more than enough to develop thins like this&nbsp;<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4617003">3D STL Files</a> (Thingiverse)&nbsp;Operating Software:Python file to run the eInk screen. I may add a how to to make it load on startup.

Software used to design and operate the msg

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MSG Cyberdeck - Software

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<h1>pimoroni pirate audio mounted on a pi zero &nbsp;</h1>This is the first add-on I put together for the expansion bay on the msg. It is just a pirate audio from Pimoroni mounted on a raspberry pi zero. Note that as an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.&nbsp;Parts<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/pirate-audio-line-out">Pirate Audio Line-out HAT</a> &nbsp;- all in one music player made for the Raspeberry Pi<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/354JzLr">Raspberry Pi Zero</a> - the brains<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3k7W5OP">Pi Zero USB Stem</a> - Makes it easier to plug the pi zero into any USB port<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2U3nM0A">screws</a> - m2.5 I used 5 and 6mm<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3k4so16">standoffs</a> - you actually want M2.5 8mm, but I only had 6mm, so I used 2mm nuts to make it work<figure class="image"><img src="https://nars-bucket.s3.amazonaws.com/pirate_audio_parts_tools_cd5d6809bd.webp" alt=""></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;AssemblyThere is a bit of soldering for the stem, but other than that it is fairly trivial.&nbsp;Set UpI used this <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://learn.pimoroni.com/tutorial/sandyj/getting-started-with-pirate-audio">guide</a> which basically installs mopidy on the Pi Zero. I have mixed feelings about it, it has a web browser manager for the music, but I would rather control the thing without needing an extra computer. Do let me know if you get a pirate audio working without mopidy, I'd love to give it a go.<figure class="image"><img src="https://nars-bucket.s3.amazonaws.com/pirate_audio_parts_bottom_f057314eca.webp" alt=""></figure>&nbsp;And you are good to go!&nbsp;

the first add-on for the msg, it is a Pimoroni pirate audio hat mounted on a raspberry pi zero

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MSG Cyberdeck - Add-On: Pirate Audio

<h1>PocketType</h1>This is a post about the assembly of the PocketType I bought on <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://mechboards.co.uk/shop/kits/pockettype/">mechboards</a>. I plan to use it as a keyboard on the go and as a test to see if it is actually functional or more of a novelty.Assembly is straight forward, the instructions on the <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://mechboards.co.uk/shop/kits/pockettype/">mechboards</a> website is all you need . The keyboard worked right away except the leds. The default setting makes sense, but I may buy some stickers or find a way to get legends on at least some of the caps&nbsp;parts<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://mechboards.co.uk/shop/kits/pockettype/">pockettype</a> - the star of this show<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://mechboards.co.uk/shop/components/elite-c/">elite c</a> - way overkill, but looks pretty and the usb c is nice. Any pro micro will do and they go for about $5<figure class="image"><img src="https://nars-bucket.s3.amazonaws.com/pocket_type_setup_52a5b1950f.webp" alt=""></figure>tools<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3lwLIVT">solder iron</a><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3iKlFZi">smoke absorber</a> - important if you solder with lead-based tin<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2InGJcg">micro cutter</a> - to clip the tips after solder<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/36Zct1h">solder reel stand</a><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3noCnA2">ESD-safe brush</a> - any brush will do to clean dust and remove residue<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2SFpc0s">caliper</a><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3nfubCz">small bits and sundries electronics tools</a> - they play well with the electric screwdriverrotex - I got that off eBay, the ones for sale now (like the dymo on amazon) appear to be very poorly build by comparison<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2IcIvfN">self-healing cutting mat</a>&nbsp;consumables<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/38AbK7r">tip tinner</a> - to keep the solder iron in tip top condition<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2Gvllkn">rosin</a> - makes soldering easier<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3nvat6w">solder wire</a> - I use the lead one because it is easier, but with enough skill you should be able to move to lead-free wires<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3lvIUsn">99% ipa</a> - great for cleaning residue.<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/38H3JgS">M2 4 and 6mm screws</a> - I like the dark color and flat top better than the ones it came with. I didn't have 10mm (which are used in the back), so the back uses the ones it came with.&nbsp;

Assembling a PocketType to use as a keyboard on the go

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PocketType

<h1>Gherkin</h1>This is a post about the assembly of the Gherkin I bought on <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://mechboards.co.uk/shop/kits/ortholinear-kits/gherkin-kit/">mechboards</a>. I plan to use it as a tester keyboard, basically to plug on<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.raspberrypi.org/products/"> Raspberry Pis</a> and <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.adafruit.com/feather">Adafruit Feathers</a> during development.For the assembly i followed the instructions in the <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.40percent.club/2016/12/gherkin-assembly.html">40percentclub</a> website. I didn't need the leds, so I skipped that part (and the resistors for them). Also I didn't have any low profile sockets, so I just soldered the <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://mechboards.co.uk/shop/components/elite-c/">Elite C</a> directly to the board. The choice of chip is unnecessarily expensive, a $5 pro micro would do just fine. The reason for the Elite-C is that I like the USB-C connector and the PCB design.For the software I just flashed using the default QMK file for the Gherkin in the <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://github.com/qmk/qmk_toolbox">QMK Toolbox</a>. I plan on using the default layout for a little while before making any changes.Finally, I didn't like that the bottom plate that comes with the kit covers the Gherkin PCB, which has the cool art on it. To work around that I designed and 3D printed a bottom plate. I was a bit sloppy with the PLA, so it has a tiny bit of leakage from the prior (red) roll I was using. The case fits the parts snugly, and if it wasn't for the anti-slip rubber domes the keyboard would sit too low to plug the usb cable.&nbsp;parts<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://mechboards.co.uk/shop/kits/ortholinear-kits/gherkin-kit/">gherkin kit</a> - the star of this show<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://mechboards.co.uk/shop/components/elite-c/">elite c</a> - way overkill, but looks pretty and the usb c is nice. Any pro micro will do and they go for about $5. Also best practices dictate that you should use a socket instead of soldering it directly.<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://zealpc.net/products/zealio">switches</a> - any will do, cherry, gateron… your call or that of your wallet. I have zilents on my main keyboard and aqua zilents on my cyberdeck. I decided to stick with the brand but I tried their standard Zealio ones this time. Not disappointed.<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2LfyhwO">keycaps </a>- Again, as long as they match your switches, any will do. I wish I had the Vans 8BitDo set. But alas I can't find it anywhere and it looks like Vans is not in business anymore, so this ones from amazon were the closer thing I found on the web.<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4714377">stl files</a> - for the bottom plate if you choose to use the one I designed<figure class="image"><img src="https://nars-bucket.s3.amazonaws.com/gherking_bottom_chip_567ef6dd24.jpeg" alt=""></figure>tools<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3lwLIVT">solder iron</a><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3iKlFZi">smoke absorber</a> - important if you solder with lead-based tin<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2InGJcg">micro cutter</a> - to clip the tips after solder<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/36Zct1h">solder reel stand</a><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3noCnA2">ESD-safe brush</a> - any brush will do to clean dust and remove residue<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2SFpc0s">caliper</a><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3nfubCz">small bits and sundries electronics tools</a> - they play well with the electric screwdriver<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2IcIvfN">self-healing cutting mat</a>Optional - for the bottom plate if you don't use the one that came with it:<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-printers/180-original-prusa-i3-mk3s-kit.html#">Prusa MK3s</a> - 3D printer, there are plenty out there. This is the one I have and seems to be ok.<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3dhbnz0">de-burring tool</a> -to remove the brim on the printed part<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2GKzRV0">knives to remove supports</a> - To clean up some of the PLA on the corners where the de-burring tool had issues&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://nars-bucket.s3.amazonaws.com/gherkin_top_dark_6f0fab6ca2.jpeg" alt=""></figure>consumables<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/38AbK7r">tip tinner</a> - to keep the solder iron in tip top condition<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/2Gvllkn">rosin</a> - makes soldering easier<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3nvat6w">solder wire</a> - I use the lead one because it is easier, but with enough skill you should be able to move to lead-free wires<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/3lvIUsn">99% ipa</a> - great for cleaning residue.<a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="https://amzn.to/38H3JgS">M2 8mm screws</a> - I like them better than the ones that came with it. The dark color and countersunk top look nicer than the zinc round heads imo.

Assembling a Gherkin to use as a backup / testing keyboard.

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Gherkin

<h1>DIY project to assemble a working computer running two architectures.</h1>msg has been featured at:<a href="https://cyberdeck.cafe/mix/msg">cyberdeck.cafe</a> - community site for all things cyberdeck.&nbsp;

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Workshop

As the name suggests, these are tools I have used to assemble the msg. I am thinking on sharing here mainly hardware-related tools, but that could change.

Welcome to the msg lab!

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